One of the most valued holidays for couples is Valentine’s Day. The ideal way to provide decoration for this vacation is the Valentine nail design. For Valentine’s Day, we have selected for you more than 40 types of fashion-forward nail designs.
The regular nail is called “common” because it is the most practical means of efficiently, quickly, and inexpensively fastening pieces of wood together. Glue is neater, screws are more robust, and either one still becomes stronger in combination with the right joinery. But 99 percent of all the nation’s homes are nailed together because they are faster and easier to handle.
There are hundreds of different kinds of nails, with their range of sizes for each type. They range from railroad and boat spikes down to brads so good they barely make a thousand pounds. Less than a dozen sizes and styles, however, will serve the average handyman’s needs. The difference between the finished work holding together or falling apart is choosing the right nail and driving it correctly.
Nails are held by friction, that is to say, by the pressure of wood against the nail shank. Three things depend on how well they have: the condition of the wood, the shape and texture of the nail, and the nail size relative to the size of the wood.
First, consider the wood’s condition. The nail will drive in quickly if it is soft, but it will pull out quickly as well. The harder the wood, the harder it is for a nail to drive, but the more challenging it holds. One notable exception exists – splitting. The hardwoods split easier than the soft ones. You come to a point where a nail thick enough to be driven without bending is also thick enough to break the wood, starting with softwoods like balsa and pine, through rock maple and oak, and on to ironwood and teak. In other words, some woods are so hard that they can not be nailed without first drilling a pilot hole. Using a screw is more practical when you achieve that need.
Dry wood, which can often not be split at all, splits more readily than wet wood. There is a good chance that when a nail is driven into damp wood, it will shrink after the wood dries, leaving the nail loose.
The second consideration is the nail’s form and texture in contact with wood; the more significant the nail’s external surface, the greater the holding power. Furthermore, many nail types have ridges or spirals along the shank, both of which increase the nail’s holding capacity and the tendency to split the wood into which it is driven. More quickly, a long, thin, pointed pin goes in, fits well, but is more capable of splitting the wood. There is less braking action but more holding power for blunt-pointed nails or those blunted by the hammer before driving. The best compromise is the common diamond-pointed nail.
A special glue is used to coat many types of nails. The passage’s heat melts the glue when driven into the wood, and the pin is quickly glued in within a few minutes. They will freeze in that position if you go these nails partway and will bend if you try to drive them deeper later on. Also, it will be hard to pull them out. It is best for coated nails to be gone all the way at once. Powdered rosin-coated nails will respond in somewhat the same way.
The size of the nail, about the size of the wood, is the final consideration. A spike will split a thin, dry slat. A good rule is to choose an ordinary nail that will not penetrate the last piece of wood all the way through. Choose a coated box nail of the same length as a standard nail if the wood is extremely dry. Use a long enough pin to go through the thin piece and two-thirds of the way through the thick one if you are fastening a light board to a thick one.
Except for the laying of hardwood floors (where unique steel-cut nails are used) and the fastening of wood trim, this standard can apply to virtually all mixed-size carpentry and all everyday household work. Because almost all frames are made of softwood, long, thin nails are used. There is little load on the nail, and often, before reaching the foundation to which the trim is fastened, the nail must go through space.
It is also of vital importance to locate the correct place to drive the nail. Usually, moving across the grain is the proper procedure. It holds better and divides less aptly. The nail is easily pulled out by being driven along the grain. The wood will be divided by any shearing pressure placed on a nail so driven. It will split out a nail set too close to the end grain. Placed too close to the board’s edges, it will also produce splits. A single nail will allow a certain amount of swing in the joint, but two nails will eliminate swing and more than double the strength if they are not placed in the same grain line.
Although we have discussed nails concerning their holding power against pulling outward, nails should never be used for that strength alone. It is necessary to place the nail so that the strain against it is crosswise, not along its length. A nail can be removed, but shearing it off is extremely difficult. In your construction work, place all the nails so that this principle is observed. All structural joints can be made so that the weight and live load will drive nails deeper or force the load against their shear angles, except trim, which carries a little gear. Something other than simple nailing strength is required if you find a place where this is not possible. Use angle iron, straps, bolts, or some additional securing methods. To note the right-and-wrong techniques, study the sketches. They’ll ensure the safety of your construction projects.
Nails are ordered by the number of pennies, or “d” This number, once based on the price per nail, is now only related to length. Concerning this number and the number of pins of that size you get per pound, the table below indicates the nail’s length. Rule-of-thumb calls for setting the nail two-thirds of its length into the second of two pieces to be joined in deciding what size of the nail to use. To avoid splitting, use the thinnest possible nail with very dry wood. For larger nails, particularly in hardwoods, pre-drill holes. As they might bend or break, avoid using rusty nails.